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LHOTSE - EVEREST
April - May 1997
Objective: the link between Lhotse (8516 metres) and Everest (8848 metres) across the connecting neck. An absolute world first.

Organisation: Gruppo Alpinistico Shisha Pangma of Albino (BG)

Expedition leader: Simone Moro

Team: Simone Moro (Italy - professional mountaineer) Anatoli Boukreev (Kazakistan - professional guide and mountaineer), Dilitri Sobolev (Russia - cameraman)

Method of climb: from the base camp to the summit of Lhotse, then descend by the southern neck and a climb to the summit of Everest.
Climbing the two summits, traversing the crest connected by the southern neck is an ideal of mountaineering of the future.
For more than 30 years, this project has been discussed in all the world's mountaineering centres, and from the Eighties it has been identified as an undertaking which is a major step forward in the evolution of performance at high altitude.
In all those years, however, no mountaineers have ever attempted this crossing, not even with the use of oxygen and Sherpas.

Sports result: Simone Moro and Anatoli Boukreev (Kazakistan) reached the summit of Lhotse on 27th May, 1997.
Their attempt to traverse the link between Lhotse and Everest failed, due to prohibitive atmospheric conditions.

Scientific activity: verified the reaction of the human body to on-the-limit performance, remaining without oxygen at over 8000 metres for a period of at least 48-72 hours.
The approach to the climb was rigorously sporting: no use being made of oxygen, no taking of drugs and/or stimulants, no external help from sherpas and with maximum respect for the environment.