Objective: Shisha Pangma 8013 metres. The mountain is entirely in Tibetan territory, 16 kilometres from the border with Nepal. Its name means "Crest of the Pastures" or, in indortano, "Place of the Saints".

Organisation: Gruppo Alpinistico Shisha Pangma of Albino (BG)

Expedition leader: Simone Moro.

Team: 12 members, among them climbers, technical, medical and scientific support.

Method of climb: the 1964 Chinese route along the NORTH/EAST crest, which is entirely in Tibetan territory

Sports result: Simone Moro, Domenico Belingheri, Adriano Greco, Silvio Mondinelli, Paolo Paglino and Alexia Zuberer reached the summit.

Performance: successful speed record attempt (16 hours) on the route by Adriano Greco and Alexia Zuberer.

Scientific research: None

Parallel initiatives: participation of two members of the expedition in the famous Marathon of Tibet, which takes place in October in the expedition’s exact area of operations.

Diary of the journey...
The mountain became known to the outside world in 1850 and its provisional topographical name was Peak XXIII. In the years 1945-1946, Heinrich Harrer and Peter Aufschneiter were able to summarily map the region and photograph the mountain from about 10 kilometres away.
In 1949, exploration closer to Shisha Pangma by H.W. Tilman, added to man's knowledge of the mountain some additional information, but people were unable to study it close up for political reasons.
The Chinese occupation of Tibet then made it totally impossible to get near the mountain. The Shisha Pangma's south/southwest wall is extremely arduous and, therefore, the only means of scaling it was from the west or northwest.
The Chinese carried out reconnaissance of the north face in 1963, reaching an altitude of 7160 metres.
In 1964 a large expedition, composed of 195 members, decided to conduct an assault on the mountain: the expedition was directed by Hsiu King and included mountaineers, scientists, map makers, geologists, geomorphologists, physiologists, geophysicists and others.
On the morning of 2nd May at 6am local time, after only four hours and twenty minutes of climbing from the final camp at 7700 metres, 10 mountaineers reached the summit, where they deposited a bust of Mao Tse Tung and the five-star Chinese flag.
The weather was splendid and photographs of great interest showing the panorama from the summit were taken, photographs which are enjoyed and useful even today in giving people a first look at the zone, still of notable mountaineering interest.
After the reopening of the frontier to mountaineers at the end of May, 1979, the Germans Abelein Zinti and G. Sturm conducted their first reconnaissance to evaluate the possibility of climbing Shisha Pangma. The following year, a powerful expedition departed, headed by Dr. Abelein and the Sturm brothers and including Zinti, Dacher, Wiedman, Hupfauer, Schaffert and Reismuller, who were among the best known German mountaineers of the period.
They took the 1964 Chinese route along the northeast crest and on the 7th May made the summit with Dacher, Schaffert, G. Sturm and Zinti and then, on 12 May, with Hupfauer and M. Sturm.
Numerous other expeditions and solo mountaineers have successively reached the top of Shisha Pangma: among the best known was Reinhold Messner, conquering his eighth 8000 metre, and Mutschlechner, who climbed to the summit by taking a new route and scaling the Tibetan face, reaching the top on 5th May.